Replace trailing arm bush difficulty? - Page 6 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:49 PM
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I used the same bushings

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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-16-2016, 06:44 PM
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OK, I replaced the bushing on the driver's side today and took some better pictures for those who may be interested. The control arm must be removed, no matter what the bushing press advertisers say. The old bushing cannot be pressed with the arm still on the vehicle.

OK, here is the arm as it was removed. Since I've done this before, I had that sucker out in under 15 minutes.


The old bushing was so weak I was able to remove the inner portion with my bare hands (Hulk STRONG)




I believe one symptom of bad trailing arm bushings is a rattle or knocking sound from the rear. Yep, mine had that symptom.

Here is the tool fitted to press the old bushing. The pressing cylinder has a beveled edge so it can fit inside the bushing. The base fits over the opposite side.


See the blue line I marked on the arm? First, clean the area and fit the press piece over the old bushing. There is a line on the edge (barely visible in the picture). This is important, because the flats of the new bushing must align where the old were located. Other means of marking are white paint marker, filing the arm to mark the flats -- whatever works.


Make sure everything is squared and hand fitted. Use a hand socket and not an impact. Trust me, this thing will slide like butter. I cleaned the arm with Liquid Wrench.


I'm probably half a degree off from the mark, but this will work. Using a fat marker didn't help.



Notice the gap between the arm and the edge of the bushing. This is important and I don't know if people take that into account. The old bushing is set at the same depth.




When reinstalling the trailing arm, set the rear part on a jack to help guide installation. Reattached it to the rear lower arm, but don't torque the bolt completely. Swing the trailing arm upward and work it inward. Use patience. The forward bolts have tapers to aid with alignment. Clean the threads ahead of time as they will have dried remnants of green Locktite. I reinstalled them with blue Locktite. Get one started and thread it partway. Then, install the second. Snug both bolts and torque (72.06 to 97.57-ft/lbs). I went high and even at 95-ft/lbs.

Since I redid the entire suspension system, I replaced the upper and lower control arms along with the insulator for the rear spring. Reinstalling the control arms is tricky. I did the lower first, installed the top bolt for the upper, and then the lower bolt. Installing the lower arm first helps get the geometry set up properly. I prefer to get all bolts started and all pieces in place before torquing to the final values. The torque values for the bolts for both control arms and the rear lower arm bolt is 55.69 to 75.15-ft/lbs. I set them all at 75-ft/lbs and used blue Locktite as well.

*Caution - pay particular attention to the parking brake cable when reinstalling the arm. I didn't see until the last minute I had it routed outside the arm. I undid most of my work before I realized all I needed to do was disconnect the cable from the caliper.

Yes, that special trailing arm press was expensive, but it made the job go smooth and was far cheaper in the long run. I am willing to rent it to others who wish to tackle this job.

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Last edited by VWandDodge; 07-17-2016 at 09:16 PM.
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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-24-2016, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWandDodge View Post
OK, I replaced the bushing on the driver's side today and took some better pictures for those who may be interested.
Thank you for the great pics! I bought the tool from Zappa
a while ago and will do this job soon. It's just so hot right now in Texas! I have to balance having enough light and not kill myself with the heat.

I also saw this video on Youtube that very clearly walks through the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRDjNtLyY6s

I am pretty confident on doing this job now.
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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jchu14 View Post
Thank you for the great pics! I bought the tool from Zappa
a while ago and will do this job soon. It's just so hot right now in Texas! I have to balance having enough light and not kill myself with the heat.

I also saw this video on Youtube that very clearly walks through the process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRDjNtLyY6s

I am pretty confident on doing this job now.
His video is the one that told me I could do the job. You're in Texas and I'm in Oklahoma, which means we don't have to deal with the corrosion issues the guys up north do, so the job will be a piece of cake for you. I just wish I could find the link I had read which explained to set an angle gauge on the bushing to ensure it's at 90º. Assuming you mark it properly, you should be fine.

I took my car out last night to bed the ceramic brake pads and it rides like a completely difference machine with all new suspension components both front and rear.

2006 Mazda 3 2.3L Hatchback 5-speed Automatic
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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 02:35 AM
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Does anyone still have the tool they would be willing to lend or sell me? I'll provide UPS shipping label
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 05:51 PM
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Take a look at video below -kit is ball joint press kit being used to press out a bushing.


You can rent from local auto parts store the kit video shows individual pushing out bushing using the kit for control arm bushing but its same principle pressing out the trailing arm bushing.
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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 11:05 PM
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Yeah I rented the same tool, except the C-Clamp didn't fit over the two cups that are required for the clearance of the two metal "wings" that protrude from each side of the bushing. So I purchased the largest beefiest C-Clamp from local HD and it didn't have enough clamping force. It was rated for 2100 lbs. I guess I'll take the piece over to a local mom and pop machine shop in the morning...

Last edited by SethCalkins; 02-13-2017 at 11:08 PM.
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 08:31 AM
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Ok update... I've got the new bushing in .. bolted the trailing arm bushing to the top ... but nothing else is lining up .. any one experience this ?
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