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post #21 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-04-2015, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by XCNuse View Post
I typically have ended up using sockets (very large ones for old flywheels lol), and C clamps, if I can't use a bench vice.

Having the proper tool of course would make the job twice as easy at least!

If you're taking apart half of those things anyways, IMO you certainly might as well; maybe even do camber arms if you haven't.

If you do, and are successful, mind taking pictures??
Even maybe writing up a how-to?
I'm hoping to make some what of a how to article depending on whether or not I have the patience to take photos at each step. Now that you asked though I have a little more motivation

I am curious though, I don't see any component in the service manual called a camber arm. Is there another name for what you're talking about?

You got me thinking now, I wonder if I should replace the control arms while I'm in there.... Most everything looks not TOO bad but it all has 110,000 km on it (Google tells me that is about 68k miles) so how much more life can I really get out of them?

I'm also concerned about getting the car to the shop after I finish all the suspension work.... I'm also doing struts... I'm hoping I can get it close enough for the 2k ride to Midas for an alignment.
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post #22 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-04-2015, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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item #4 in that picture; it's the curved arm. The toe links are the one low and rearward, that are straight.

It might be hard to say, as suspension components truly depend on where you live, seriously. Weather life is just as important as mileage and street conditions through the life.

But I'm willing to bet most people have pulled over 150k miles out of them or more before really having any issues.

I just want to replace mine with some energy suspension bushes I purchased last year lol

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post #23 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 03:18 PM
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I'll be doing TA bushings this weekend, might make some pics and will post here how i did it so others can take a look and see how easy or hard it is to change them

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post #24 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 03:51 PM
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I just did this repair last weekend. Took me 2 half days since I am a novice and had issues taking bolts out of chamber and lower control arm. I replaced with Energy Suspension Polyurethane. Part is for Ford Focus but the trailer arm is the same part on both ford focus and my 2008 mazda 3 GX sedan. You can confirm on rockauto if the trailer arm is the same part number on the 2004 ford focus and your model mazda3..

the part number is Energy Suspension 4.7124R (which is red)

you can also use Energy Suspension 4.7124G which is Black. As far as I know they are the same

But i also have the black version for my front sway bar and I remember reading that the black versions for my sway bar had more oils inside of poly so I went black. But for the 4.7124R it was $10 cheaper so I went with them


The steps I took to replace was:

***first off always watch for spring. I didn't have to secure it but I was paranoid about it coming out and killing me. LOL

Remove tire/rim,
Disconnected ABS connector and also the clips that attach it to trailer arm
disconnect clips attaching hand brake cable
removed plastic shield
Removed bolt from bottom of strut
Removed outer bolt from control arm
remove trailer arm bushing bolts
remove bolt from outer chamber arm
******At this point watch out for the chamber as it can bounce upward and will yank on the no hand brake, brake line!!!!!!

At that point you should be able to pull down the trailer arm to get access.

The energy bushing requires you to reuse the pin, so I sat on the ground and put my 2 feet on the trailer arm and used both my hands with a vise grip and ripped the pin out. This wasnt so bad because the original bushing was so damaged. I used a hammer to chip off as much as i could and then an air tool to clean up the pin.

then I removed the old bushing with a long bold, nut, washers and a 6 inch plate of metal which had a hole for the bolt to go through.
With the bolt going through the bushing, nut and washers on far side and plate on front side I was able to use impact gun/wratchet to get the bushing out.

Then greased up new bushing and using same tool I pushed in bushing 90% of way and then used a control arm bushing tool set i rented from auto part store to get the last 10% in.

Then the hard part came. which was to get the in back in. This took my buddy's help and we pushed the pin back in with a clamp and all 4 of our hands to steady it while it slipped it.

Also don't try using an air hammer to push pin it. The Poly just absorbs all the force and it simply would not go in. Slow and stead is the way with the pin.

Hope this helps!!
You have helpped me out many time on this forum!

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post #25 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 03:53 PM
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FYI, no need to remove rear brakes by my method!

Also you will want to torque the lower control arm while the car is sitting on all 4 tires.
If possible chamber to.

all bolts were 75ft/lbs
trailer arm is 95ft/lbs

I always pick higher spec torque.

Let me know if you want a diagram with torque specs. I have it somewhere.

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post #26 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 11:49 AM
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By all this write up i don't really get it whitch bushings you replaced here, trailing arm, the one that is covered with plastic piece or some other bushings?

P.S. Pics would be nice too.

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post #27 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-11-2015, 07:19 PM
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I am refering to the highlighted part I this image


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post #28 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 10:34 AM
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Sucks u had to put the pin on I got moog proble. Solvers and they seems really nice and with the "pin" in been waiting till winter comes and I'm laid off. To do this job along with speed 3 brakes mew controls arms new shocks, oranges to yellows. Maybe new toe arms, and maybe new camber arms if they don't need torched off, if they don't I'm gona be upset because I got an alignment and I specifically told them to adjust camber and they didn't, Re adjustable toe arms really worth it?

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post #29 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdtk View Post
I am refering to the highlighted part I this image

What tool did you use to press out and press in the bushings?

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post #30 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Setoniukas View Post
What tool did you use to press out and press in the bushings?
A custom tool and then a ball joint tool kit.

The kit looked like this


I used a long Bolt, 3 washers to size step from the bolt size to the bushing size. Put that through the hole where the Pin used to be, then on other side of arm I put 1 of the rings from the ball joint kit around the lip of the arm where bushing sits, and then a plate of metal with a hole that he bolt went through, and then a nut.

Then I just tightened the nut which pulled/pushed the bushing out of arm.

I would have preferred just using the kit but the kit was not long enough to fit in 2 rings and parts at same time

Essentially same process for inserting the bushings except i was using polyurethane bushings which were super tight and a lot of grease which caused the bushing to constantly slip. Took 4 or 5 attempts on driver side and 2 attempts on passenger side. Best method I found was to just keep tightening until it popped in. even if it is going in at a 45 degree angle. I would not try pushing in at 45 degree angle with non-poly!!!

Sorry I don't have a pic. The custom tool is at my buddy's house and the ring & tool kit was a rental so it has been returned.

I just ordered bushings for front control arm and will be using same tools so I can take a pic when that happens. Bushings wont arrive for 1 or 2 weeks.

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Last edited by rdtk; 10-13-2015 at 10:13 AM.
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