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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

[size=24pt]Rear Sway Bar Bible[/size]
[size=18pt]If you don't find it here, it probably doesn't exist.[/size]
Please post or PM any requests for additions/corrections to jrkart99


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Here's how a sway bar works.

Normally, without a sway bar when the car corners the weight of the chassis shifts toward the outside of the turn compressing the springs on that side. The springs on the inside generally extend a little, or do nothing. Relatively to the chassis itself, it appears that the outside suspension compresses and the inside doesn't. A sway bar couples the suspensions on each side to each other, and relative to the chassis. A sway bar effectively increases the spring rate on whichever side is compressed the MOST. If the sway bar were absolutely solid with no twist so there's a 100% coupling between each side then an attempt to compress one spring actually becomes an attempt to compress both springs. It doubles the spring rate. If the bar has some twist, then it may only increase the spring rate by say 50% on whichever side is compressed the most.

By buying an aftermarket RSB, you are usually getting a thicker diameter bar that will resist the twisting over stock. Adjustable bars will allow you to adjust the stiffness of the ride.

What do I feel?

The application of an increased diameter sway bar will reduce body roll of the rear of the car. The car will feel more responsive in turns and hard cornering. You will be able to maintain more speed through corners since you'll not be contributing to more roll of the car exiting turns. Essentially, it'll feel like the back end of the car is following tighter behind the front wheels.

Any negative considerations?

Under normal driving circumstances, no. Spirited driving is generally fine, too. But dialing up a really stiff rsb can be dangerous in aggressive driving. Using a setting that's too stiff and very hard cornering can lead to snap oversteer if your lift off mid corner. The force that supported by the bar then transfers the weight laterally over the outside wheels. Result can be loss of control or rolling your 3. that's bad.



Who makes sway bars? Originally complied by *Angel of Darknes*, updated by jrkart99

Corksport
32mm Adjustable Rear (Hollow)
blue/black powder coated
part axl-8-010-10
MS3- (stiffer than stock) softest is 20%, middle is 45%, hardest is 80%
MZ3 (stiffer than stock) softest is 135%, middle is 190%, hardest is 260%


H&R
26mm Non-Adjustable Rear (Solid)
Part #71643
Urethane/Teflon composite bushings featuring a molded-in fabric-like material that requires no maintenance H&R Sway Bars are powder coated for long lasting performance, quality and beauty.intenance or lubrication, and eliminates squeaking

Eibach
26mm Rear (Solid)
Part #5545.312
Part # 5545.320 (as pair)

Hotchkis
32mm Adjustable Rear (Hollow)
Part # 22436
95% stiffer than the stock sway bar with a rate of 1625 lbs/in
140% stiffer than the stock sway bar with a rate of 2030 lbs/in
Easy to lubricate polyurethane bushings and heavy duty brackets with zerk fittings included

James Barone Swaybar
32mm bar with 3 settings
low- 593 lbs/in
mid- 718 lbs/in
high- 901 lbs/in
http://www.jamiesplanet.com/Sway_Bar...GEN1/index.htm

Progress
22mm Adjustable Rear (Solid)
polyurethane bushings
62.1125


Mazda 3 Stock Bars
Rear Bar: 20mm (Solid)

Mazdaspeed (Specific for Mazda 3)
Rear
Rate – 117.3 N/mm
Dia – 26mm (solid)

Mazdaspeed 3 Stock
Rear Bar: 26mm (Solid)

Mazdaspeed 3 Aftermarket
Rear Bar: 26mm (Solid)

F2
Rear Bar: 25 mm (Solid)

Whiteline
22mm rear

Auto-exe

Cobb Tuning
Rear
1/14” Outer Diameter
50% and 90% Stiffer than Stock (adjustable)

Racing Beat
27mm Rear Adjustable (Solid)

Tripoint Engineering RSB.
3 adjustable settings of 750, 825, and 1000lbs/in.
http://bit.ly/hlKNTd


Is the install hard?

probably one of the easiest bolt on installs out there. With minimal car knowledge, a novice could complete this in an hour or so.

How do i do it?

someone put this together on youtube, thorough walkthrough. Mazda 3 sway bar install

On Adjustable sway bars, what is the best setting?

Depends on how stiff you want the ride. The middle hole is a good place to start. the further hole is stiffer, closer is softer.

What else should i know?
  • tighten down your endlinks to 40ft lbs of torque

  • bushings are torqued to around 70 ft lbs

Fitting can be a pain. The increased diameter of the bar can sometimes rub on the top of where that metal plate inserts. , and make sure they are flush to the outside of the bar. . Be sure to lube bushings. Do this on ramps with the suspension compressed, not on jacks, fitting will be a problem then.

Oh no! there is some clunking/popping/(insert noise here) after i installed the bar! Did i break something?

Yes, you are f'd, sell the car quick. Just kidding.

If you didn't have this problem before the install, and did no other install along with the sway bar, it is highly unlikely that some other component of the suspension went bad. you don't mess with other aspects of the suspension so it's likely something with the install. From what i've observed in the forums and on my own car the problem is typically loose end links. Here are a couple of diagnostic things to try.

First Test: On an empty street, do the imaginary slalom at low speed with hard fast turns. If the clunk reproduces with a turn and body roll seems unchanged from stock, its the end link on the side you turned into.

fix: check quality of endlink. these things do break around 40k-ish and it seems like its the passenger side more frequently. If the link doesn't seem broken- make sure you have the end link flush to the sway bar, tighten to spec, add locktite. if broken, go here:

if clunk still present:

Second test: Check fit of bar. make sure a butt end of the bar aren't under control arms, check paint, scuffs/scratches mean the control arm is coming down on the bar.

Fix: loosen the bar bushings and re-fit.

if clunk still present:

Third Test: Remove bar and look at paint on the center of the bar. New scrapes mean that the bar is hitting the top of the brackets that hold the metal plate up or the bolts themselves.

fix: Re-fit bar, add washers to bolts to add space.

If you have AWR solid endlinks, check out my other post: http://www.mazda3forums.com/index.php?topic=195653.0

IF THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS:

Long shots: bounce the read end of the car, if you get more that 2 bounces after you let go and clunk, its the shock absorber. Usually there is some fluid leaking on the shock itself. If there is a normal bounce and a clunk: spring fittment in control arm or the rubber housing at the top of the spring rotted.

Another long shot, bearings. Jack the offending rear tire of the car and pull/push on the tire hard. Clunk = bad bearings.

If you have changed the springs or shocks: re-tighten the lower control arm assy bolts. For whatever reason when the car is on jacks, the bolts stay loose. Put on ramps, re-tighten. you may find you can get 2 or 3 more cranks on the bolts.

Obscure shots:

Some have reported dirt around brakes, things in the trunk, at this point you may need professional assistance to diagnose the problem.


Post any changes you have, I'll update as we go along.
Fat Ralphy likes this.

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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 11:03 PM
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

fyi

these are the figures I found for the MazdaSpeed accessory sways for the Mazda 3.
i didn't measure mine but I can tell you they are not 21mm.

GRMS-8M-L06

Front
Rate – 39.5 N/mm
Dia – 26mm (solid)

Rear
Rate – 117.3 N/mm
Dia – 26mm (solid)

2006 Whitewater Pearl Mazda 3 S GT Hatch: Garage Vary Valiant Lip, Grill and Eyelids : Custom JL/Alpine Audio : MazdaSpeed Accessory Springs and Swaybars : JDM MazdaSpeed Strut Bar : Koni Yellows : 5Zigen Pro Racer zr520 : Continental ExtremeContact DW : Buddy Club Condenser : XE Pedals : Black Rays Lugs : HP Tint : Stubby :
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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 11:15 PM
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

Nice write up but I've got another correction. The racing Beat rear sway is solid not hollow.

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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

Updated w/ above info. Thanks

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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-01-2011, 11:40 PM
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

i wish i could remove my post...i should have PM'd you.

anyways, dialing up a really stiff rsb can be dangerous. too stiff and you can get snap oversteer if you lift off mid corner.
this warning should be included (imho) as many people don't test drive their cars to their limits after suspension modifications.

2006 Whitewater Pearl Mazda 3 S GT Hatch: Garage Vary Valiant Lip, Grill and Eyelids : Custom JL/Alpine Audio : MazdaSpeed Accessory Springs and Swaybars : JDM MazdaSpeed Strut Bar : Koni Yellows : 5Zigen Pro Racer zr520 : Continental ExtremeContact DW : Buddy Club Condenser : XE Pedals : Black Rays Lugs : HP Tint : Stubby :
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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

[quote author=John_in_the_LBC link=topic=187081.msg3949493#msg3949493 date=1299037255]
i wish i could remove my post...i should have PM'd you.

anyways, dialing up a really stiff rsb can be dangerous. too stiff and you can get snap oversteer if you lift off mid corner.
this warning should be included (imho) as many people don't test drive their cars to their limits after suspension modifications.
[/quote]

Noted above. Thank you.

AEM CAI; Magnaflow Cat back exhaust; Hypertech Regular Fuel Tune, Eibach Prokit Springs; CorkSport RSB; AWR solid endlinks; TRZ Tranny and Rear Engine mounts; WeaponR Torque Dampner; 8000k HID headlights; TB Bypassed and Grounded; JVC AVX830 head unit, zoom-zoom decals
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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

Minor updates, please keep the info coming

AEM CAI; Magnaflow Cat back exhaust; Hypertech Regular Fuel Tune, Eibach Prokit Springs; CorkSport RSB; AWR solid endlinks; TRZ Tranny and Rear Engine mounts; WeaponR Torque Dampner; 8000k HID headlights; TB Bypassed and Grounded; JVC AVX830 head unit, zoom-zoom decals
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-02-2011, 03:52 PM
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

There's also the Tripoint Engineering RSB. 3 adjustable settings of 750, 825, and 1000lbs/in.

http://tripointengineering.com/produ...15dc2ed8d0fceb
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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

[quote author=jko link=topic=187081.msg3950303#msg3950303 date=1299095547]
There's also the Tripoint Engineering RSB. 3 adjustable settings of 750, 825, and 1000lbs/in.

http://tripointengineering.com/produ...15dc2ed8d0fceb
[/quote]

Added. Please keep the info coming.

PLEASE VOTE ABOVE!!!

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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 10:42 PM
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Re: Looking for sticky! info on rear sway bars, install and troubleshooting

I learned something.

You have my vote.
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