Rotors and Warping - Page 3 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-20-2008, 03:04 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 32
Re: Rotors and Warping

Would the following be a possible side effect for warped rotors?

I recently had my rear brakes replaced (2004 mazda3 s, 38,000 miles), and ever since, I've had a chirping sound as I drive. When I apply the brakes, the chirping sound weakens, but when on a quiet road, you can still hear it. I took it back to my mechanic, and he re-smoothed the rotos, took the entire brake assembly apart and put it back together. The chirping was gone for a week or two, but is now back again.
ryetronics is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 09:39 PM
Moped Rider
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cairo, Egypt
Posts: 16
Re: Rotors and Warping

i need help with this... i drive a 2007 mazda 3 and have changed my brake rotors for the second time!!!! Funny thing is i am once again starting to feel a shake under braking. Although i dont brake hard, i have the 15 inch wheels with plastic covers which infact i know dont provide enough cooling for the brake system as rims. i need to know how i could properly torque da wheel lugs n if the "warp" is caused by material from the pad, how can i fix that.
mazdafan123 is offline  
post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-24-2008, 08:06 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: 305, 954, 772. Florida
Posts: 1,450
Send a message via AIM to brunoxmatoss
Re: Rotors and Warping

why is this not stickied?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


mazda3forums... where everyone is an expert on everything
brunoxmatoss is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 12:20 PM
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 6
Send a message via AIM to Bengoshi-San
Re: Rotors and Warping

This thread is very informative but it in itself has also become confusing.

So basically from what I gather, rotors themselves do not warp, and that it is improper torque-ing of the wheel lugs that warps them?

And others replies in this thread seem to imply that if you correctly torque the wheels that the shake goes away? What if the damage is already done? Then you still have to replace your rotors.

I have an 06 Mazda3 (2.0L) with 32k miles and the brake rotors are warped and the shaking is very bad anywhere above 30mph braking. Am I to just replace them and make sure that I torque down the lugs myself or do I just have to re-torque the front wheels myself?

If someone could give me the torque specs for the lug nuts that would help. Thanks.

This is definitely from what I have seen a common problem on the Mazda3's. They have very strong brakes but a lot of rotor issues.
Bengoshi-San is offline  
post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 12:26 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,377
Send a message via AIM to NSNMotorsports
Re: Rotors and Warping

[quote author=Bengoshi-San link=topic=84444.msg2507003#msg2507003 date=1217517656]
This thread is very informative but it in itself has also become confusing.

So basically from what I gather, rotors themselves do not warp, and that it is improper torque-ing of the wheel lugs that warps them?

And others replies in this thread seem to imply that if you correctly torque the wheels that the shake goes away? What if the damage is already done? Then you still have to replace your rotors.

I have an 06 Mazda3 (2.0L) with 32k miles and the brake rotors are warped and the shaking is very bad anywhere above 30mph braking. Am I to just replace them and make sure that I torque down the lugs myself or do I just have to re-torque the front wheels myself?

If someone could give me the torque specs for the lug nuts that would help. Thanks.

This is definitely from what I have seen a common problem on the Mazda3's. They have very strong brakes but a lot of rotor issues.
[/quote]

Once the rotors warp or have issues turning them or replacing them are the only option. And yes always re-torque them yourself regardless of whatever the shop says or does. Break them loose and then re-torque. Then after a day of driving hit them with the torque wrench again (don't break loose this time). You should periodically check the torque on them every month or so as well.

I don't know what the torque spec is for the 6's but most cars fall in the 75-90 ft-lb range. I typically use 75 or 80 when I do my cars.

In some rare cases the rotor/wheel can be sitting on the car a little odd and that is why re-torquing will make some throbbing issues go away, but that is relatively rare. Usually only seen when hub centric rings and/or self centering lugs are not used and the wheel itself actually gets off center.

[size=10px][b]Best prices on Vibrant, Koni, Hawk, and more!!!![/size]

Microtech Standalone EMS for Mazda 3!!!
[color=blue]

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Discount code ForumRef at checkout for 3% off any order.
NSNMotorsports is offline  
post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 01:02 PM
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 6
Send a message via AIM to Bengoshi-San
Re: Rotors and Warping

Thanks for the quick and informative reponse.

Okay, so I have to replace the rotors, but can I keep my brake pads or do those need to be replaced as well? My brake pads only have 8k miles on them at the very most. Although I can understand why they might need to be replaced.. so they can be bedded with the new rotor. Am I correct?
Bengoshi-San is offline  
post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 01:23 PM
Le Mans: Prototype Class
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 1,377
Send a message via AIM to NSNMotorsports
Re: Rotors and Warping

you can probably keep your pads, but you run a higher risk of squealing or chirping in doing so. If you bed them you should be able to recut the glaze on then to match the rotor hopefully. But you should be able to get away without replacing the pads.

[size=10px][b]Best prices on Vibrant, Koni, Hawk, and more!!!![/size]

Microtech Standalone EMS for Mazda 3!!!
[color=blue]

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Discount code ForumRef at checkout for 3% off any order.
NSNMotorsports is offline  
post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 01:44 PM
Bicycle Rider
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 6
Send a message via AIM to Bengoshi-San
Re: Rotors and Warping

Sounds good, thanks again.
Bengoshi-San is offline  
post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 07-13-2010, 10:08 AM
Short Track Racer
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 154
Re: Rotors and Warping

The need to "bed" your rotors is an outcome of a newer and cheaper way to stress relieve castings.

As cast, the rotors (all castings) have internal stresses that are trying to move the metal around. When you heat the metal up (hard braking) you provide the heat needed to soften the metal enough for these internal stresses to actually re-shape the metal; that is, warp the rotors.

The traditional method for stress relieving castings called for the castings to be slowly heated up to a fairly high temperature (about 800 degrees F.) over several days. Then the castings are allowed to sit at that temperature for a couple more days and then over the next 7 to 10 days the parts are allowed to very slowly cool off.

After stress relieving the parts are ready for machining.

As you can see, this is a slow and expensive operation, and it has largely been replaced by a high frequency vibrating method. A small vibrator is attached to each casting and the vibrations are allowed to continue for several days. This works reasonably well, but not nearly as well as baking.


This cost cutting is the real reason for the rotor warping problems.

See: http://www.ductile.org/didata/Section7/7intro.htm
Packard is offline  
post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 09:28 PM
Go-Kart Driver
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 50
Re: Rotors and Warping

i had the OE rotors turned today, and my driver side was thinner to start , and there was a thin spot, mechanic said someone had probably dug the brakes inwhile they were hot

35% tint , K&N Air filter, Polk 3055 component system (front),Pioneer 6-1/2" 3-way ( rear), painted red tow-hook, Eonon d5102 with custom Zune HD integration (plays music and charges), Apexcone 5k low , 3k fog , Polk GNX10DVC subwoofer, SoundStream STL2.350 A/B amplifier,RED LED's EVERYWHERE!
arandomvirus is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum > Technical / Model / Performance > Suspension / Brakes

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Image Verification
Please enter the six letters or digits that appear in the image opposite.

Registration Image

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
8