Caliper bracket fitment issue - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Caliper bracket fitment issue

Hello all, been a while since I posted. Just saved up and spent a nice bit of coin on front end and rear suspension...new kyb struts, lower control arm, strut link, sway bar bushings, inner/outer tie rods and steering bellows, front wheel bearings, cv axles rebooted, brakes and rotors all swapped out.

Right side goes back together without any issues, get to the part on the driver's side where I have the new rotor on and am having trouble getting the screws to line up and catch a thread on the caliper bracket . . . Had the rotors held in place with two lug nuts, backed them off and got the bracket screwed in and when I tightened the lugs by hand . . . Rotor was snug against the bracket and would NOT turn.

I have pulled everything loose and found a Japanese Koyo bearing (vs. chinese) and changed it out a second time. If I put a single washer on each lug between the hub and rotor, I get just enough clearance ( about .023 inches vs. .060 on the passenger side rotor) between the caliper bracket and rotor.

This car had been in a wreck before I purchased, but I have put about 34,000 miles on it.

I can't figure this out, something had to have been bent after I took it apart, I guess.

I am buying a new caliper bracket in the morning just to see if that is the culprit.

I don't have the time to fool with finding a used bearing knuckle so I need to get this figured out...

Should I just go with the washers as spacers idea or should I gently file the steering knuckle down just a little by hand where the bracket bolts to it?

Or both?

Anyone ever seen or heard of this?

I'm typing on my phone right now, I will post pics of it all together on a bench in a little while.


Thanks for reading and if this is posted in the wrong place, please forgive me and kindly move it to the proper place.


Thanks,

JB

Aka Frank3nstein

Last edited by Frank3nstein; 02-15-2017 at 02:53 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Here we go . . .

This is with the original rotor, that was my first thought, wrong new part.

Going to parts store in 10 minutes to compare the new bracket... This is weird.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Could the knuckle warp/bend without cracking?

Can the bracket bend/warp without cracking?

Am I missing something simple?

I put it together the exact same way I put the passenger side together and the reverse of how I broke them down.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Can anyone tell me the minimum clearance for the inboard side of the caliper bracket?

Or better, both sides.

I may have to use the washers as shims idea. I don't like it, but it will work. once the lug nuts are torqued, they are torqued and the washers will be under the rotor . . . at least for the next week or two.

Apparently Frank3nstein was a proper name for this little car. Poor thing.

Last edited by Frank3nstein; 02-15-2017 at 02:52 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, unless someone else can show me a pic with the same angle of lean in, it looks like the knuckle tabs are warped.

I can either heat and bend and risk snapping said tabs or go find a used knuckle in better condition and press everything out and back in, if I don't kill the bearing. I have an extra, just in case. ;-)

Have two over the phone quotes for the knuckle already.... one for $50 the other for $60.......... off I go!

This makes sense because the left CV axle gave the guy fits when he disassembled it. He had to use a press, as he could not do it by hand, he even asked if the car had been in a wreck, because the difficulty in disassembly was usually an accurate indicator.

Somehow the car adapted and the brake pads floated correctly, because the old pads had pretty darn even wear.

the guy at O'reillys said I could grind the ear/tab down so it would be straight, but then I would have to grind the bracket on the opposite side so it would go up against the tab, and then you get into threading issues. Nope, I don't have an acetylene torch so I can't heat it up enough. Buying replacement will be my fastest option.
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Last edited by Frank3nstein; 02-15-2017 at 03:57 PM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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I still don't get it though, the steel rims that came on it weren't bent. wait, one was but it was a slight warp. maybe so. It rode on the back and did not vibrate... I bought new alloy rims before the rotation had to be done, so it never rode on the front again. but when the old tires were on it, it was on the front and cleared everything.

Weird.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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Salvaged Knuckle off of a '07 and the bracket spacing looks much better!
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