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2008 Mazda 3 GX clunking noise after lowering.

5K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  rdtk 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi Everyone,
I lowered my car several months ago and have been troubleshooting a clunking noise from front right suspension. That does not seem to be a safety nor performance issues but is driving me nuts. Last year I replaced my OEM struts with Koni Orange struts, then this spring I replaced the shocks with Koni Orange. Then this summer I installed Tien S.Tech springs with new strut mounts. From the get go there was noise. I thought it was something loose such at sway bar end links or perhaps I didn't put enough torque down on center strut nut, so after attempting to torque those bolts which I did not have correct tool, I brought it to my dealer and had them tighten to spec, but problem still existed. Then I noticed that if I shake the top of the spring while car is jacked up, there is play on both sides. The spring on the side that makes noise is much easier to move around. After some online research, others have had issue with strut mount, so I swapped back to the oem one that was on the car before adding lowering springs, and same issue. I "THINK" i also checked the side engine mount since the noise appeared so must be fine. Swaybar bolts/nuts are tight to!

Now I only see 3 options.
-go back to oem springs (but the lowering springs are to awesome! and paid good money for them)
-fight with manufacturer to replace the 1 spring (but the other side has play too...)
-add some type of bushing to lock that spring in place.

The bushings option is something I would like to explore. I took the strut mount and started to measure out and then hit the web for some type of universal polyurethane coil spring isolater / disk in hopes that it would add the needed space and pressure once the spring is installed and car is jacked up but couldn't find matching. I then noticed that you can purchase polyurethane tubs to slip over the top of the spring for other cars. I believe by adding material between the inside diameter of the spring and strut mount, this will stop the Play. Some people have used hot water tube/piping to solve this issue on other cars. I just need to make some new measurements when I get home from work and go internet hunting again. perhaps go to hardware store to get rubber piping of some kind.

Has anyone run into similar issue with lowering springs and what was the solution?
 
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#2 ·
I had a clunking noise coming from the bottom of my 2006 hatchback as soon as I swapped out the swaybars. My mechanic and I couldn't figure out what it was. Everything was tighten to spec and nothing looked out of place. It ended up being a swaybar link. I could relate to what you're feeling, the clunking noise was driving me crazy even though it didn't affect the ride quality.

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#3 ·
yes I agree that could be a root cause. when I replaced the front struts it made the same noise and it turned out to be sway bar end link being loose. but right now I sure it is tight. I think I am going to end up purchasig some type of rubber pipe first since it is cheap. if it works ill buy some proper polyurethane piping. if it doesnt work then I guess ill have to revisit the end links. maybe switching them around from driver side to passenger side... if they are the same part
 
#4 ·
The links were tighten very well on my car. My mechanic even used a pry-bar on the links to see if he could get any play. There was none and we thought it couldn't be the links. But based on his experience, he was positive it had to be one of the links.

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#6 ·
Had the same issue when I put the 2" drop on my 2007 with eibach. Ended up going slightly less aggressive and put in camber adjusters from eibach in the rear. Noise stopped. Ohh and replaced the bump stops.

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#7 ·
I just added piping around top of springs in front and stopped the play and replaced the end link on the side that the sound came from and sound is still there. So that plus mazda dealer fee which didnt shed any light on issue, I have spend over $100 chasing a gremlin.. not sure what I can try next or if I should try anything at all...

fyi the moog front end link looks way thicker with grease fitting and uses 2x 15mm combination wrenches instead of the allen key version which I hate. seems like an upgrade once I replace the other side.
 
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